Ultimate German Wine Guide: From Riesling to Spätburgunder

Dec 20, 2024by Andrew Lowry

History of German Wine: From Roman Times to the Present

German winemaking dates back over two millennia, beginning during the time of the Roman Empire. The first vineyards were planted along the Mosel River in approximately 100 BCE, and these early Roman settlers understood the potential of the region’s cool climate and rocky, slate-laden soils for viticulture. The Romans recognized the region's ability to produce wines comparable to those of their own regions, and thus, German wines began to gain early recognition.

As the centuries passed, viticulture spread throughout the region. In the medieval era, winemaking was heavily influenced by the Catholic Church, with monasteries becoming the central hubs of viticultural knowledge and innovation. The monks planted vineyards on steep, difficult-to-reach hillsides, ensuring that the vines received maximum sunlight. They also pioneered many winemaking techniques still in use today, such as the method of making sweet wines from overripe or botrytized grapes.

The 19th century marked a significant turning point for the German wine industry. Innovations in winemaking equipment, such as the development of the hydraulic wine press, helped to improve wine quality. Moreover, the creation of Germany’s wine classification system, the Qualitätswein system, gave rise to a more structured approach to quality control in the production of wine. Despite setbacks such as phylloxera and both world wars, German wine has persevered, and in recent decades, has gained a global reputation for its exceptional quality, particularly Riesling.

Complete Grape Variety Guide

Germany is home to a stunning diversity of wine grapes. Known predominantly for its white wines, particularly Riesling, Germany also cultivates a range of lesser-known but equally fascinating varieties. Let’s dive deeper into the key grapes that define German wine, starting with the classic white varieties, then exploring the reds, some of which are gaining increasing recognition.

Riesling: Germany's Signature Grape

Riesling is the quintessential German grape, revered for its ability to express a wide range of styles, from bone-dry to luxuriously sweet. It thrives in Germany’s cooler climate, where its naturally high acidity allows it to develop exceptional fruit flavors, ranging from crisp apple and citrus to honey and apricot. Riesling is particularly sensitive to terroir, and it has a distinctive ability to showcase the mineral characteristics of the soil. In the Mosel region, wines often display delicate floral aromas and an unmistakable slate minerality, while in the Rheingau, Riesling can be more full-bodied and structured, with notes of ripe stone fruit.

Beyond the basic Riesling, there are numerous classifications that further define the style and sweetness level, such as Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese. Each of these categories reflects a different level of ripeness or botrytis infection, with the latter two, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, producing some of the world’s most coveted sweet wines, capable of aging for decades.

  • Kabinett: A light, crisp style with a fresh acidity, often made in dry or off-dry styles, ideal for seafood and lighter fare.
  • Spätlese: This style, which translates to "late harvest," often ranges from off-dry to medium-sweet, offering more complexity and body than Kabinett.
  • Auslese: Made from fully ripe or overripe grapes, Auslese is rich and concentrated, usually sweet but can also be made dry.
  • Beerenauslese: A dessert wine made from individually selected, botrytized (noble rot) grapes, resulting in a rich, luscious wine.
  • Trockenbeerenauslese: This rare, sweet wine is made from grapes that have been dehydrated by noble rot, producing an intensely concentrated wine with complex aromas of honey, dried fruit, and spice.

Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir): Germany’s Rising Red

Spätburgunder, the German name for Pinot Noir, is a red grape that has gained increasing importance in Germany’s wine industry. Traditionally grown in the cooler wine regions, Spätburgunder has flourished in areas like Baden, Ahr, and Pfalz, where it can achieve excellent ripeness without losing its characteristic acidity. Germany’s Spätburgunder is lighter and more elegant than Pinot Noir from warmer regions like Burgundy, but still offers a complex array of flavors, ranging from ripe red berries and cherry to earthy, smoky notes with subtle spice.

In recent years, producers have worked to refine their winemaking techniques for Spätburgunder, utilizing temperature-controlled fermentation, oak aging, and careful vineyard management to produce more structured, age-worthy wines. These wines can range from light and delicate, ideal for early consumption, to more powerful expressions that can improve with age, making Spätburgunder one of Germany’s most exciting wine varieties.

White Varieties

Aside from Riesling, Germany’s white wine repertoire includes several other important varieties, each contributing unique characteristics to the wine scene.

  • Müller-Thurgau: Known for being light and fruity with a slightly floral character, Müller-Thurgau is often made in an approachable, easy-drinking style. It’s typically consumed young and pairs well with fresh seafood or salads.
  • Silvaner: With a long history in Germany, Silvaner wines are often described as dry and mineral-driven, with green apple and citrus notes. The wines from Franken and the Rheinhessen region are some of the best examples.
  • Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc): Similar to its red counterpart, Spätburgunder, Weißburgunder offers fresh, crisp acidity and flavors of apple, pear, and almond. It is a versatile white wine that pairs excellently with creamy dishes, seafood, and chicken.

Red Varieties

Germany is often associated with white wine, but its red wines are steadily gaining recognition, particularly in regions like Baden and Pfalz.

  • Dornfelder: This red variety is known for its deep, inky color and fruity, plummy flavors. Dornfelder wines are often made in a medium-bodied style with a touch of sweetness, making them approachable for those new to red wines.
  • Lemberger (Blaufränkisch): Lemberger is a red variety that thrives in the Württemberg region. It produces wines that are structured, with flavors of dark fruit, black pepper, and earthy undertones. These wines are often paired with roasted meats or hearty stews.

Regional Deep Dives

Germany’s wine regions are as diverse as the wines they produce. The country’s cool climate and varied topography create a wide range of terroirs that influence the wines. Here, we explore the key wine regions of Germany, each with its unique characteristics.

Rheingau

Rheingau is perhaps Germany’s most famous wine region, home to some of the finest Riesling wines. The area is known for its sunny slopes along the Rhine River, which benefit from the river’s moderating effects on temperature. Rheingau wines often exhibit greater structure and depth, particularly those from the best vineyard sites like the legendary Johannisberg and Marcobrunn vineyards. The region also produces excellent Spätburgunder wines, which are increasingly garnering international acclaim.

Mosel

The Mosel region is synonymous with high-quality Riesling. Here, the vineyards are often planted on steep, slate-covered hillsides that allow the vines to absorb maximum sunlight. The resulting wines are light, crisp, and mineral-driven, with the ability to age beautifully. Mosel Riesling is often characterized by its vibrant acidity, citrus, and green apple flavors, along with a distinct minerality that reflects the terroir.

Baden

Baden is Germany’s southernmost wine region and enjoys the warmest climate, which makes it ideal for Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). This region produces full-bodied wines with ripe fruit flavors. Alongside Pinot Noir, Baden is also known for its Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), both of which thrive in this warm environment.

Pfalz

Pfalz is one of Germany’s sunniest wine regions and is located just to the west of the Rhine River. The combination of sunshine and well-draining soils produces wines that are rich, aromatic, and full-bodied. Riesling is the dominant grape here, but Spätburgunder, Dornfelder, and a host of international varieties are also planted. The region is known for producing wines that balance fruit richness with refreshing acidity, making them ideal for both drinking young and aging.

Modern German Wine Industry

In recent years, the German wine industry has experienced a renaissance, driven by a commitment to quality, sustainability, and innovation. Many winemakers have embraced organic and biodynamic farming practices, with a growing emphasis on minimal intervention winemaking techniques. The industry’s dedication to environmental responsibility is evident in the increasing number of wineries seeking certification for sustainable practices.

Another notable trend is the focus on small-batch, artisan wines. Many producers are experimenting with new methods, such as natural fermentation, to produce wines that reflect the terroir more authentically. There is also a resurgence in the production of dry wines, which had fallen out of favor during the 20th century when sweeter wines dominated the market.

The rising quality of German wine has positioned the country to compete on the global stage, particularly in the premium wine sector. While Riesling remains the flagship grape, a growing number of red wines, particularly Spätburgunder, are gaining recognition for their complexity and age-worthiness. Germany’s wines are becoming increasingly sought-after, both within Europe and internationally.

German Wine in the Global Market

Over the past few decades, Germany has seen significant growth in the global wine market. Traditionally, the country’s wines were primarily exported to neighboring European countries, but today, German wines are gaining ground in regions such as the United States, the United Kingdom, and Japan. This is particularly true for premium-quality Riesling, which has seen increasing demand due to its versatility, food-pairing ability, and ability to age.

In addition to Riesling, there is growing interest in Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), which is being recognized for its ability to produce wines that rival some of the best reds from Burgundy. As German wines continue to evolve and diversify, the country’s presence in international wine markets is expected to grow even further.

Label Reading Guide

German wine labels can be complex, but once you understand the key terms and classifications, navigating them becomes much easier. Here are some tips for interpreting German wine labels:

  • Qualitätswein: This term denotes high-quality wine from one of Germany’s 13 designated wine regions (Anbaugebiete). It is a legally controlled category that guarantees a wine's quality.
  • Prädikatswein: These wines are made from grapes that have been harvested at different levels of ripeness, resulting in wines of varying sweetness. Common categories within this classification include Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese.
  • VdP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter): A designation used by select high-quality producers that signifies membership in the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter. It ensures that wines meet rigorous quality standards.

Understanding these labels will help you identify the style, quality, and potential aging capability of a German wine at a glance.

Expanded Food Pairing Section

German wines are incredibly versatile, offering a wide range of food pairings depending on the style. Dry Riesling, for example, pairs beautifully with fresh seafood, sushi, or poultry dishes like roast chicken. Its high acidity and fruit-forward character complement lighter dishes, enhancing the flavors of the ingredients.

Spätburgunder is an excellent match for roasted meats, such as duck or pork, where the wine’s structure and acidity balance the richness of the meat. It’s also a great choice with earthy dishes like mushroom risotto.

For dessert, consider pairing a luscious Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese with a rich dessert like crème brûlée, blue cheese, or foie gras. The concentrated sweetness and complexity of these wines make them perfect accompaniments to bold, flavorful foods.

Climate Change Impact

Climate change is having a noticeable impact on Germany’s wine industry. Rising temperatures are causing grape ripening to occur earlier, leading to changes in harvest patterns. While some regions are benefiting from longer growing seasons, others face challenges like increased droughts and the risk of fungal diseases. Winemakers are responding by adapting to these changes through more sustainable practices, including using cover crops, reducing pesticide use, and planting drought-resistant grape varieties.

These adaptations ensure that German wines remain consistent in quality despite the challenges posed by climate change, but producers will continue to monitor and adjust their practices to protect their vineyards and maintain the integrity of their wines.

The Future of German Wine

The future of German wine is bright. As the industry continues to innovate and respond to the challenges posed by climate change, we can expect even greater refinement in winemaking techniques. Sustainable practices will become increasingly important, and the focus on terroir-driven wines will continue to shape the future of German viticulture.

With a growing interest in both traditional and innovative styles, German wine is poised to take a larger share of the global wine market. New regions and vineyards are emerging, and the quality and diversity of German wines are at an all-time high.