Chardonnay: Buttery vs. Unoaked & Bottles to Try
Grape Profiles · White
Chardonnay tastes buttery when it goes through malolactic fermentation and ages in new oak barrels; it tastes crisp and citrusy when the winemaker skips new oak and keeps the acidity bright. The grape itself is fairly neutral, which is exactly why it's the world's most versatile white: it shows the place it grows and the choices of the person who makes it, from steely Chablis to rich Meursault and golden California.
Chardonnay, from crisp to rich
Why does some Chardonnay taste buttery?
Two winemaking steps create the classic "buttery" California style:
- Malolactic fermentation (MLF): bacteria convert sharp malic acid (think green apple) into softer lactic acid (think milk). A byproduct called diacetyl smells like butter.
- New oak barrels: fermenting and aging in new oak adds vanilla, toast, coconut and baking spice, plus a creamier texture. Stirring the lees (the spent yeast) adds even more richness.
Skip or limit those steps and you get crisp, citrusy, mineral Chardonnay. Most of today's best producers sit in between, using some older barrels and partial MLF for texture without heaviness. Our post on why oak barrels are used in winemaking explains the oak side.
What's the difference between oaked and unoaked Chardonnay?
| Unoaked / stainless steel | Oaked | |
|---|---|---|
| Flavors | Lemon, green apple, pear, wet stone | Baked apple, pineapple, vanilla, toast, butter |
| Body | Light to medium | Medium to full, creamy |
| Classic examples | Chablis, Mâcon, unoaked California | Meursault, Napa and Sonoma, Margaret River |
| Pair with | Oysters, sushi, goat cheese, salads | Lobster, roast chicken, creamy pasta, corn |
Where does the best Chardonnay grow?
- Burgundy, France: the benchmark. Chablis for steel and chalk, the Côte de Beaune (Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet) for richness and depth, the Mâconnais for value. See our Burgundy guide, Chablis masterclass and guide to the Mâconnais.
- Champagne: Chardonnay makes blanc de blancs. See grower Champagne.
- California: Sonoma Coast, Carneros, Santa Barbara's Sta. Rita Hills and the Central Coast for cool-climate styles; Napa for richer ones.
- Oregon, Australia (Margaret River, Adelaide Hills, Yarra Valley), New Zealand and the Jura for exciting modern and natural styles.
Is Chardonnay dry or sweet?
Almost always dry. Oak and very ripe fruit can create an impression of sweetness (vanilla and tropical fruit read as "sweet" to our brains), and some inexpensive brands leave a few grams of sugar in. A well-made Chardonnay is fully dry.
How should you serve Chardonnay?
Crisp, unoaked Chardonnay: 45 to 50°F. Richer, oaked Chardonnay and white Burgundy: 50 to 55°F, so the texture and aromas show; take it out of the fridge 15 minutes before pouring. Good white Burgundy and top California Chardonnay can age 5 to 10 years or more.
If you don't like Chardonnay, what should you try?
If you've been put off by buttery styles, try Chablis or an unoaked bottle before giving up. If you want something else entirely: Chenin Blanc for similar texture with more acidity, Albariño for crisp and saline, or Sauvignon Blanc for zesty and aromatic; see our Sauvignon Blanc guide. For a broader tour, read Exploring White Wine.
FAQ
What makes Chardonnay buttery?
Malolactic fermentation produces diacetyl, a compound that smells like butter, and aging in new oak adds vanilla, toast and a creamy texture.
What is unoaked Chardonnay?
Chardonnay fermented and aged in stainless steel or neutral vessels instead of new oak barrels. It tastes crisp, citrusy and fruity.
Is Chablis a Chardonnay?
Yes. Chablis is made from 100% Chardonnay in the northernmost part of Burgundy, usually with little or no new oak.
Should Chardonnay be chilled?
Yes. Serve crisp styles at 45 to 50°F and richer, oaked styles slightly warmer, around 50 to 55°F.
Whether you like it crisp or creamy, there's a Chardonnay for you. Shop Chardonnay →
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Header photo: Manuel Venturini on Unsplash
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